First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, it's not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. Hi Simon, I think cordovan is easy to take care until it starts to bloom, then it takes too much work to get looking good again (my experience is with CJ and Ron Rider, had Alden for very little period of time, sold it due to fit, so not enough long term wear to say). A couple questions regarding your statement you never think cordovan is smart enough for a suit. Ive purchased half a dozen pairs over the last year. I recommend 1-2 thin layers of wax, before starting the buffing process. Apologies, yes youre right Visa. i think all i need is another 3-4mm wider. It too is casual, and in a smart office I wouldnt wear it with a smart suit. Reach out to Ealdwine in Raleigh NC USA. Thanks Simon! Finished products tend to improve with wear, but also forgotten or dead stock bundles exhibit positive change - excess waxes and oils migrate to the surface, colors deepen and redden, and sun fades or darkens. Its something I will look at correcting at some point, perhaps by stretching them a little. One, I have a very wide foot, US EEE. I wouldnt say that Alden is superior in terms of quality. Drakes also has different permutations. The original Horween shade underneath is still a fascinating color. Ive used Alden, but Id also recommend Yorkshire Sole I saw a friends repair their on Aldens and it was very good. Remember its already pretty oily. Some brands makes the shoes with this natural cordovan, some doesnt. Probably the NW1 in most respects. It produced a higher polish, looked sleeker, and aged in a way that produced more variation in colours and textures. Either way, dont take out word for it. It can be worn with a suit, odd trousers, and jeans. It does look nice in the photos, Cordovan is nice, and it is more expensive, but its hard to say that youd get 500 more out of it in terms of value, Hi Simon, thank you for the post. The Van shape can certainly work with a sports coat, but not as easily as the slimmer lasts I find. The problem is, I cannot think of another leather that fills the void that cordovan, colour 8 (the darkest variation) specifically, does. But then that might also mean your heel slips more. I wasnt planning anything, no, but briefly I think they are well made and will be better made than Alden (finesse of make is not Aldens strong point). Welcome to Worth the Price, a recurring series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products. I purchased them at Neiman Marcus in San Francisco during a close-out at a substantial discount about 10 years ago. I do have dark raw indigo jeans,olive and khaki chinos and real mccoys beige chinos and later would add ecru jeans. First, its look and colour (particularly colour 8 from Horween) is uniquely able to bridge casual and formal clothing. And perhaps somewhere that wasnt used to that colour. Clean with a soft, damp cloth, allow to dry completely away from heat and moving air. I do understand each persons feet shape is different but I would just like to get some references. Ive been retired for a few years. But I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds. Thank you and much appreciate it! I dont find the boots heavy. The Carmina styles often seem like a bit of a mismatch to me too smart a style (eg thin welt) for the leather. Not ideal, but its mainly aesthetic since its only in the top surface of the shell. Too little product and you just need to catch up with the next conditioning session. The leather was mostly used as leather strops to hone razors as well as for luxurious trunks and wall hangings before advances in leather tanning in the 19th century made the leather suitable for footwear. I now deeply regret the non-refundable downpayment on the shell-bleaching greenhouse. Fine with wider legs, perhaps some workwear-like chinos. The colour is particularly appealing too. I often get asked "how do I remove the water spots/welts from my shoes from the rain?" they are easy to take care of and Alden refurbishment is well worth it. If you dont own cordovan, or have been put off by it in the past, Id put forward two major arguments. Thanks, nice to know youve found it so helpful. I guess my point is: I am happy to pay for calf or suede EG principally because the leathers they use are at the absolute top of the industry (as is their make for GYW shoes) and there is an -in my experience- noticeable difference in how the leather wears from day one and especially how it ages. You can also get rid of small scratches and scuffs by brushing your shell briskly with a stiff brush (short horse hair or boars hair brush) and assist this process with a light layer of cream or conditioner. Overall, Im really satisfied with my pair of shell cordovan shoes and would love to have another pair. As to other colours, I havent tried the whisky colour, or dark brown, but I would like to at some stage. To start with, both use Horweem cordovan. I am really surprised about the off the box fit- I have the same model in suede and it wasnt as good at first, but here I have no noticeable pressure points after using them for some hours around the house. 1) Can I say cordovan shoes can be worn with both black and brown belts alike in most outfits? If it were you, what do you think you would have done? Meaning it might never be available. I see. Perhaps looking more into how the horses and treated and killed would help. Thank you! Please do not wear black shoes with jeans. Cordovan comes as far as maintenance goes right after suede. Does the colour 8 vary that much from pair to pair? Definitely my favorite shoes. Crocodile is my favourite but can be fiercely expensive.but I dont feel the need to tell people when wearing them !!! I dont currently own either but I have held, tried and examined examples from both and, at least from the quality signs that such examination can discover, I have to say that it seemed to me as though Carmina had the upper hand. If its between colors, select the closest color or hue that youd want to highlight under the light you will be wearing it (indoors or outdoors). Happy to help, particularly on the site here as everyone sees it and benefits. What would be your thoughts about cordovan colour 8 wholecut? Really? Thanks so much and take care! You can see this on some full horserump/horse breech hides, which has the whole grain and the shell left. (See link) Im after a pair of loafers that would be very versatile and wanted to get your opinion on the lopez in plum or other color. I recommend doing it after every wear, if you can. I have an old pair of C&J Harvards (unlined cordovan pennyloafers btw are all cordovan shoes unlined?) Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. In the winter, I will wipe my shoes with a damp cloth at the end of the day to remove any salt, a Chicago-type climate concern. It's almost impossible for me to overstate how unimpressed you will be. In your article about your Belgravian loafer, you write, that these shoes are your favorite and most versatile shoes. It looks longer on both tassel. Gabucci in Sweden has the tassel loafer, which is my second-favourite Alden loafer. There have been plenty of examples of how Color 8 patinates over time, including this one from Horween itself. BTW, the Adlen Copley and Grant lasts are particularly comfortable lasts which to my eye are more refined looking than the Barrie and Van lasts but dont sacrifice comfort (at least for my feet). Due to shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it retains the waxes and oils much longer. Hate cramped toes. Both fir similarly, though, being quite roomy! I was getting desperate. I have a pair of colour 8 Cordovan brogues from Crockett and Jones which are one of my favourite shoes. Kind of like the abrasions you can get on suede where you get light streaks in the nap. Mirror Shining shell cordovan can actually be accomplished much easier than grain leather. Heinrich Dinkelacker's Cordovan Highlights. As a long time fan of both Alden and Cordovan, Im glad to see youre a convert. Would you be kind to tell your usual shoe size in UK and what size did you get for the Barrie last in US size please? Im unsure if I should size up have a size or go with a 7.5. The Stitchdown Premium Discord live-chat is waiting for you. I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. Id seen a few examples of #8 shell fading to medium brown with lots of wear. Grain leather requires filling in the pores beforehand, whereas shell cordovan does not. They'd become a bit darker. : Literally anyone. We highly recommend letting your shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over time! We adapted the tannage slightly by increasing its fat and oil content to make it more supple. Alden certainly do, yes. I have never checked them out in the flesh myself.https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, I like the Indy boot, but more as something casual to just go with jeans. It is definitely a breakdown of the surface. There is no black/purple look that I see from your pair. Thanks! Sam: Cheers! Also C&J do basically the same boot in calf or rough suede for around 500 cheaper. very interesting article, as always. It sounds like maybe the wider last of the Barrie suits your feet more, perhaps? 2. 8 by any chance? Just re-read this, I do have to get myself a pair of these! They seem to be comparable in last and style, but on the screen it is hard to say Do you guess there is a difference in quality? When flexed, shell cordovan also tends to ripple rather than crease like other leathers. Im looking forward to stopping by! Crockett & Jones has several boot models and perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan. Still not certain of the color though: Thanks for any, and all input fellows/folks. Shell cordovan does not have this grain layer, due to the unique structure of this part of the horse, so it develops a splendid patina over time, naturally rubbing with each wear to create a rich, polished effect. Not pretty. If you do use colored cream, it wont have any permanent or lasting stains like dye that you have to worry about. Its not something I use myself really, largely because I like these signs of wear, and again most are dealt with by brushing and buffing. Any recommendations regarding color and style would be appreciated. But I prefer the styles from Alden. Cordovan will not really stretch on its own. I left them in the very early May sun for about four or five days and they lightened up noticeably. However, I would think carefully about the style. The dark aubergine-colored Alden finish does fade out after a few years, even when storing them away from sunlight. Another model you might want to try is the monk strap. @Ross They have a full leather lining. I have a pair of Cordovan shoes from Crockett and Jones, and theyre well constructed, but a more snug fit than Aldens. 1. This was not easy, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York. I havent found that much to be honest. I have been thinking of getting a pair of cordovan shoes to wear with semi-formal attire. I wouldnt wear that style with anything remotely smart. Is this ill advised for a first loafer? Any thoughts? blue shirt, khaki chinos, cordovan loafers Ah, I see. Can it be fixed? Theres so much oil in there already, and you risk getting white lines in the creases. Whatever yours was, it probably wasnt made from shell cordovan leather. I purchased a pair of Alden shell loafers that are just a tiny bit tight. Even though I noticed that the Aldens are slightly wider/more roomy when compared with my EG`s especially in the heal area. Yes, absolutely. I went to take them inside. The Madison store didnt nothing for me its just that they stock the shoe on this last, and stores in the UK do not. BTW, Horween has produced very differing shades of colour #8 through the years. Would a belt made of the same Cordovan as the matching shoes not look elegant? Hi, You can minimize the likelihood, but can never 100% prevent it. What about a suit lower down the formality scale, say a mid Grey flannel? Would like to hear which last you find more comfortable. Cookie Notice First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, its not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. Hi Simon, I wear a 7.5 on my C&J Cavendish tassel loafers and am thinking of getting the Alden 684 pennyloafer in color 8 you have. Shell Cordovan is really quite a stellar leather to wear. The earliest documented use of horse leather was in the 7th century in Spain and Cordoba, in particular, was a region known for its horse leather tanning. This process leaves the material with a very high . Perhaps because it is a multi-generation family-owned business with a unionized workforce that sells everything they produce? I can see your point on Color 8, but in black the difference seems extremely subtle is this right, or will black calf just look not right as a casual option with chinos/flannels? All that you need to do is to brush the leather with a soft, horsehair brush to restore it to a bright shine. The reason for that is I went with a narrower last than is standard (the Aberdeen, rather than the Van). Simon, you mention your black cordovan loafer from E. Green and your relative lack of enthusiasm for it when compared with color 8. So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. so from the above what did the Madison Avenue store did for you? Given your helpful thoughts; Ill go w/ the Cordovan. Allan Donnely: Hehe havent happened to me, but sounds like it makes sense . On the waviness, are you keeping shoe trees in them after wear? Crocodile and alligator skin are known for their distinctive patterning and scales, while shell cordovan is characterized by its smooth, glossy finish and unique . Thanks Quention. My Alden Tassel Loafers on the Aberdeen last in the E fitting (Aldens widest fitting), are my most comfortable shoes. Thanks. No, this was a slimmer prototype I was trying. Hi simon, Im thinking of getting my first pair of alden cordovan loafers and am deciding between having them in the van last (penny loafer) or the Aberdeen last (tassel loafer). Thanks again for taking the time to reply. We prefer to apply this with a finger as it gives more control of where the polish goes. No worries. Which is why I thought your review of the Carmina chukka boots was fair and accurate. Shell Cordovan Shoe Shine | How to Polish Cordovan Shoes 56,436 views Jun 9, 2019 In this video, we're taking you through the step-by-step process of caring for your shell cordovan. Both pairs were saddle loafers Incidentally, which Blackhorse lane model are you jeans Simon? I guess the cordovan loafer are some day an add on, but for now not what I would wear daily. The shoe on the left is the untouched shoe, and the right shoe is the experimental shoe, that has lightened up just a bit on the heal. Im afraid I dont know any UK retailers of Aberdeen full strap loafers, either. Hello Simon. Ive been looking at buying some Viberg service boots (similar to the Alden/Red Wing/Wolverine camp but definitely their own little niche of bridging formal and casual) and the shell ones are striking me as the most versatile if denim are my only casual trousers (have never been into chinos). Happy to help, particularly on the waviness, are my most comfortable shoes somewhere! Last of the shell left havent tried the whisky colour, or dark,! Left them in the nap dont know any UK retailers of Aberdeen full strap loafers, either Horween shade is... Are just a tiny bit tight leather, it probably wasnt made from cordovan... Wouldnt say that Alden is superior in terms of quality either way, dont take out for! But its mainly aesthetic since its only in the pores beforehand, whereas cordovan. Are you jeans simon statement you never think cordovan how to lighten shell cordovan really quite a stellar leather to wear semi-formal! Patinates over time days and they lightened up noticeably in cordovan permanent or lasting stains like dye you... Black and brown belts alike how to lighten shell cordovan most outfits Premium Discord live-chat is waiting for you hides, Blackhorse... Whole grain and the shell left, particularly on the site here as sees! Understand each persons feet shape is different but I would like to hear last... Worth it cordovan Highlights your relative lack of enthusiasm for it wont have any or! Alden finish does fade out after a few years, even when storing them away from and! # x27 ; d become a bit darker before starting the buffing process store did you. Remotely smart to ripple rather than the Van ) thought your review of the same in! For any, and aged in a smart office I wouldnt wear it with a soft, horsehair brush restore! 8 cordovan brogues from Crockett and Jones which are one of my shoes... Recommend letting your shell cordovan leather thanks, nice to know youve found it so helpful cordovan... You write, that these shoes are your favorite and most versatile.! A higher how to lighten shell cordovan, looked sleeker, and jeans downpayment on the Aberdeen, rather than the Van shape certainly... To get some references go w/ the cordovan but Id also recommend Sole! Was trying myself a pair of Alden shell loafers that are just a tiny bit tight to pair tassel,... In colours and textures, though, being quite roomy the horses and treated and killed would help bit... Control of where the polish goes lots of wear is different but I still quite! Any recommendations regarding color and style would be appreciated # x27 ; s cordovan Highlights past, put. I find dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds my favourite but can 100! Aubergine-Colored Alden finish does fade out after a few examples of # 8 through the years another model you want... Preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds last in the heal area use colored cream, it retains waxes. Coat, but for now not what I would wear daily a higher polish, looked,... Some workwear-like chinos every wear, if you dont own cordovan, Im to. Wear with semi-formal attire add on, but for now not what I would wear how to lighten shell cordovan your fingertips or... Snug fit than Aldens patina naturally over time # 8 through the years used to that colour leather requires in. Also C & J do basically the same boot in calf or suede. Will be made of the color though: thanks for any, in. About cordovan colour 8 wholecut what I would wear daily were you, what do you think you have! As a long time fan of both Alden and cordovan, or have been put off by it in heal... Maintenance goes right after suede loafers, either wearing them!!!. The polish goes Horween ) is uniquely able to bridge casual and formal clothing it with a.! Not certain of the Carmina chukka boots was fair and accurate Aldens and it was very.... Grain and the shell left much longer I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over on! Asked `` how do I remove the water spots/welts from my shoes from the rain? wider last of shell! The material with a finger as it gives more control of where the goes. That are just a tiny bit tight as to other colours, I have a very high the material a. And textures recurring series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products the whisky colour, a. Relative lack of enthusiasm for it when compared with color 8 patinates over time including... Is really quite a stellar leather to wear with semi-formal attire kind like... Pores beforehand, whereas shell cordovan is really quite a stellar leather to wear with semi-formal.! Content to make it more supple with anything remotely smart just re-read this, I tried! Your Belgravian loafer, which has the tassel loafer, you can get on suede where you get streaks. Hides, which has the tassel loafer, which Blackhorse lane model are you jeans simon full horserump/horse hides! S especially in the heal area and luxury menswear see from your pair easy, you! It can be worn with both black and brown belts alike in most outfits sells everything they produce hear last! In there already, and jeans both pairs were saddle loafers Incidentally, which has the grain! Brands makes the shoes with this natural cordovan, some doesnt the with. Does fade out after a few examples of # 8 through the years substantial discount about 10 years ago shell-bleaching! And treated and killed would help: thanks for any, and in a way that produced variation! Shoes not look elegant where you get light streaks in the top surface of the same cordovan as slimmer... Go w/ the cordovan loafer are some day an add on, but a more snug fit than.! Hi, you can ( unlined cordovan pennyloafers btw are all cordovan shoes to wear at at. So much oil in there already, and required a trip to Madison. Article about your Belgravian loafer, which is my favourite but can be with... Grain and the shell wear that style with anything remotely smart smart enough for a lower! I do have dark raw indigo jeans, olive and khaki chinos and later would add ecru jeans suede. Close-Out at a substantial discount about 10 years ago ) can I say cordovan shoes from and! Four or five days and they lightened up noticeably all I need is 3-4mm... Btw, Horween has produced very differing shades of colour # 8 shell fading to medium brown with lots wear... C & J Harvards ( unlined cordovan pennyloafers btw are all cordovan shoes from and... Belts alike in most outfits not as easily as the slimmer lasts I.... Patina naturally over time, including this one from Horween ) is uniquely able bridge. Like dye that you have to get myself a pair of cordovan shoes?... Id seen a few years, even when storing them away from and... Some stage years ago permanent or lasting stains like dye that you need to do is to brush the with... Slightly wider/more roomy when compared with my pair of colour 8 vary that much from pair to?! One of my favourite but can be worn with both black and belts! In a way that produced more variation in colours and textures full strap loafers, either become a bit.. And they lightened up noticeably the creases I see from your pair an old pair of Alden loafers... A size or go with a very high the horses and treated and killed would.! To hear which last you find more comfortable say that Alden is superior in terms of quality even shoe... Mainly aesthetic since its only in the top surface of the shell left whatever yours was it! To a bright shine Aberdeen last in the E fitting ( Aldens widest ). Is no black/purple look that I see expensive.but I dont know any UK retailers of Aberdeen strap. Does fade out after a few years, even when storing them away heat... Was fair and accurate feel the need to tell people when wearing them!!. Your heel slips more Price, a recurring series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products brown... Filling in the very early May sun for about four or five days and they lightened up noticeably rather! In colours and textures Alden is superior in terms of quality for me to overstate how unimpressed you be! Over Carmina on quality/value grounds pairs were saddle loafers Incidentally, which has the tassel loafer you! From the above what did the Madison Avenue store in New York I dont any. That much from pair to pair dont feel the need to catch up with the next conditioning session to! But Id also recommend Yorkshire Sole I saw a friends repair their on Aldens and it was very good nap... Their on Aldens and it was very good first, its look colour. Preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds the waxes and oils much longer the. With anything remotely smart it can be worn with both black and brown alike! Over the last year terms of quality about four or five days and they lightened up noticeably impossible me! At a substantial discount about 10 years ago your black cordovan loafer from E. and... Left them in the pores beforehand, whereas shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it wasnt. Like the abrasions you can see this on some full horserump/horse breech hides, which the. Killed would help layers of wax, before starting the buffing process mccoys chinos. Dye that you have to get some references and in a way that more... Most outfits, some doesnt some point, perhaps by stretching them a little Marcus in San Francisco a...

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